Cheapest audio interfaces on eBay, live right now.

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How to buy a used audio interface

Match the number of inputs to your needs. A solo podcaster or singer needs 1 to 2 XLR inputs, like a Scarlett Solo or 2i2. A band recording together needs 4 or more inputs, like a 4i4. Think about how many mics or instruments you record at the same time, and pick an interface with enough inputs. More inputs cost more, but an unused input is wasted money.

Check for the USB cable, power supply and driver support. Confirm it comes with the USB cable and any power supply, and check the manufacturer's website that drivers still support your operating system. Older interfaces can lose macOS or Windows support in newer OS versions, so verify this before buying. A missing cable is cheap to replace, but outdated drivers mean the interface will not work at all.

Test the preamps and phantom power. Confirm the preamps are clean (no crackle or noise through headphones), and if you need condenser mics, that phantom power (48V) works. Look for listings that mention testing or ask the seller whether they have tested all features. A faulty input on a multi-input interface can be expensive to repair.

USB bus-powered or Thunderbolt matters for your setup. USB bus-powered units are simpler and cheaper, drawing power from your computer; Thunderbolt units like the Universal Audio Apollo add onboard DSP and lower latency but cost more and require Thunderbolt on your computer. The Focusrite Scarlett line holds value well and is the safe used buy for beginners; Universal Audio and SSL interfaces have strong resale because they work reliably.

Common questions

Cheapest by model, at a glance

A daily snapshot of the lowest genuine eBay price for every model we track, and how good that price is right now versus its usual level, updated automatically. Prices last refreshed 12 October 2026. Tap a price to see that model's cheapest listings on eBay, or tap a model name for the full live list here.

These are second hand prices, listed by sellers as used or pre-owned, taken from live eBay US listings in US dollars. In collectible categories a sealed or unworn item is sometimes the cheapest genuine listing, and it is included. The same number works both ways: it is what a buyer pays today and the resale value a seller can realistically ask. Every model also carries a price history, the daily record kept since tracking began, which is the part to read before you buy or resell. On a day when a model has no listing that passes these filters, its row keeps the last price we recorded rather than inventing one, and drops off this table if that goes on for more than a few days.

Under each model is the actual listing that price came from, so you can see whether it is the thing you want or a bundle, a variant, or an accessory that happens to share the name.

"Off retail" compares today's used price with what the model costs new. For anything still on sale that is its current new price, so the figure is close to a discount you could really get. For anything no longer sold it is the last new price we have on record: on a boxed product like a LEGO set or a console that is the RRP, and on a part like a graphics card it is nearer what new stock was going for at the end than what it cost at launch. So on older hardware read it as depreciation against late retail rather than against the original sticker. A few rows read "above" instead: they cost more used than new, which is normal for a retired set or a part nobody makes any more.

Over the period we have tracked, this category is down 1.1%, while the used market as a whole is down 0.3%. See the Used Price Index, which is built from these prices and published as a free CSV.

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