Cheapest portable power stations on eBay, live right now.

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How to choose a portable power station

Start with watt-hours (Wh), not watts. Wh is how much energy the unit stores (how long it runs your gear); watts is how much it can deliver at once (whether it can start a given appliance). A 1000Wh unit runs a 100W fridge for roughly 8 to 9 real-world hours. Match Wh to how long you need to run things, and check the AC output wattage is high enough for your biggest appliance.

LiFePO4 (LFP) is worth paying for. The newer EcoFlow, Bluetti and Anker units use LiFePO4 cells rated for 3000 to 6500 charge cycles, so they last many years and survive used ownership well. Older Jackery and Goal Zero models use NMC cells rated for around 500 cycles, which is fine for occasional use but fades faster. If you will cycle it often, prioritise a LiFePO4 model even at a higher $/Wh.

Think about recharge speed and expandability. Look at how fast it recharges from the wall (newer units hit 80% in under an hour) and whether it takes solar input if you want off-grid backup. Some lines (EcoFlow Delta, Bluetti) accept add-on battery packs to grow capacity later, which can be cheaper per Wh than buying one huge unit up front.

New, open-box or used. Manufacturer-refurbished and open-box units (often sold on eBay by the brands themselves) come with some warranty at a real discount; private used sales are cheaper still. Whichever you choose, sort by $/Wh above to see which model genuinely gives the most stored energy for the money right now.

Common questions

Cheapest by model, at a glance

A daily snapshot of the lowest genuine eBay price for every model we track, and how good that price is right now versus its usual level, updated automatically. Prices last refreshed 12 October 2026. Tap a price to see that model's cheapest listings on eBay, or tap a model name for the full live list here.

These are second hand prices, listed by sellers as used or pre-owned, taken from live eBay US listings in US dollars. In collectible categories a sealed or unworn item is sometimes the cheapest genuine listing, and it is included. The same number works both ways: it is what a buyer pays today and the resale value a seller can realistically ask. Every model also carries a price history, the daily record kept since tracking began, which is the part to read before you buy or resell. On a day when a model has no listing that passes these filters, its row keeps the last price we recorded rather than inventing one, and drops off this table if that goes on for more than a few days.

Under each model is the actual listing that price came from, so you can see whether it is the thing you want or a bundle, a variant, or an accessory that happens to share the name.

"Off retail" compares today's used price with what the model costs new. For anything still on sale that is its current new price, so the figure is close to a discount you could really get. For anything no longer sold it is the last new price we have on record: on a boxed product like a LEGO set or a console that is the RRP, and on a part like a graphics card it is nearer what new stock was going for at the end than what it cost at launch. So on older hardware read it as depreciation against late retail rather than against the original sticker. A few rows read "above" instead: they cost more used than new, which is normal for a retired set or a part nobody makes any more.

Over the period we have tracked, this category is up 1.2%, while the used market as a whole is down 0.3%. See the Used Price Index, which is built from these prices and published as a free CSV.

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