Cheapest used Apple Watches on eBay, live right now.

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How to buy a used Apple Watch

Check the battery health and that it is unpaired. Under Settings > Battery > Battery Health, anything at 85% or above is healthy; Apple Watch batteries are small and wear noticeably, and a replacement is not cheap, so ask for that figure. Just as important, the watch must be unpaired from the previous owner's iPhone and signed out of their Apple ID, or Activation Lock makes it useless. Ask for a photo confirming it has been reset.

Which model, and mind the size and connectivity. An Apple Watch two or three generations back does almost everything the newest does for far less. Note the case size (41/45mm etc.) because bands and fit differ, and decide whether you want GPS-only or Cellular, since Cellular is only worth it if you will set up a plan (and check the IMEI is clean if so).

Inspect the screen and check the bands. Look for cracks and deep scratches on the display and confirm the digital crown and side button work and the touchscreen responds. Straps are cheap to swap, so a worn band should not put you off a good watch.

Value. Apple Watches hold value well; a clean used model a couple of generations old is typically 40-55% below new for nearly the same daily experience.

Common questions

Which Apple Watch has depreciated most

Each model as a percentage of what Apple charged at launch. Check the percentage against how long the watch will keep getting watchOS updates, because a cheap one that stops updating next year is not the bargain the number makes it look. Tap a model to see its listings.

Cheapest by model, at a glance

A daily snapshot of the lowest genuine eBay price for every model we track, and how good that price is right now versus its usual level, updated automatically. Prices last refreshed 12 October 2026. Tap a price to see that model's cheapest listings on eBay, or tap a model name for the full live list here.

These are second hand prices, listed by sellers as used or pre-owned, taken from live eBay US listings in US dollars. In collectible categories a sealed or unworn item is sometimes the cheapest genuine listing, and it is included. The same number works both ways: it is what a buyer pays today and the resale value a seller can realistically ask. Every model also carries a price history, the daily record kept since tracking began, which is the part to read before you buy or resell. On a day when a model has no listing that passes these filters, its row keeps the last price we recorded rather than inventing one, and drops off this table if that goes on for more than a few days.

Under each model is the actual listing that price came from, so you can see whether it is the thing you want or a bundle, a variant, or an accessory that happens to share the name.

"Off retail" compares today's used price with what the model costs new. For anything still on sale that is its current new price, so the figure is close to a discount you could really get. For anything no longer sold it is the last new price we have on record: on a boxed product like a LEGO set or a console that is the RRP, and on a part like a graphics card it is nearer what new stock was going for at the end than what it cost at launch. So on older hardware read it as depreciation against late retail rather than against the original sticker. A few rows read "above" instead: they cost more used than new, which is normal for a retired set or a part nobody makes any more.

Over the period we have tracked, this category is up 0.5%, while the used market as a whole is down 0.3%. See the Used Price Index, which is built from these prices and published as a free CSV.

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